The Art of Kain Tenun Tais: A Gender Differentiation and Social Status Symbol of Bunaq Ethnic Group in West Timor Indonesia

Penulis

  • Lusius Tae Mau STP St. Petrus Keuskupan Atambua

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.61717/p.v10i1.100

Abstrak

This study examines the socio-cultural importance of the Kain Tenun Tais in the Bunaq ethnic group of West Timor Indonesia. It assesses the role that the Kain Tenun Tais has played in the past, and continues to play in the Bunaquesse society at present. The study analyzes how the colors, motifs and patterns of the Kain Tenun Tais reflect gender and status differentiation in the Bunaquesse society.The study contends that the Kain Tenun Tais serves not only as marker of Bunaquesse ethnic identity, but also plays an active role and influences the perpetuation of the traditional weaving process that generates this identity. The weaving process connotes complementarily of tasks between men and women.The traditional weaving of Kain Tenun Tais is founded on the stories narrated by women/weavers in the poems of “Tei Gugul Hiliq”. This study uses qualitative approach to generate information on the role of Kain Tenun Tais as signifier of social status and gender stratification in the Bunaq society. It is supplemented by descriptive statistics derived from representative survey of 40 randomly selected respondents who are familiar with weaving. The wearing of the Tais signifies social stratification. The patterns, motifs, and colors of the Kain Tenun Tais communicate the social status of the Bunaqs based on land ownership.The pattern of the thread weft signifies the distinction of the social statuses. The Kain Tenun Tais symbolizes the connection of the present Bunaq people with their ancestors. It also represents the power relations between the Bunaq men and women. Asia. The patterns, motifs, and colours of the Kain Tenun Tais mark specific life events that stratify the Bunaquesse people based on status and gender. It is a crucial material expression of the Bunaquesse identity as a people.

Unduhan

Data unduhan belum tersedia.

Referensi

Abad, G. Ricardo (2006). “The Cloth We Wear: A Sociological View, Manila: Ateneo de Manila University.

Adams, Maria Jeanne. (1969), “System and Meaning in East Sumba Textile Design: A Study in Traditional Indonesian Art, Southeast Asia Studies Cultural Report Series No 16, New Haven, Yale University, in Annette B. Weiner & Jane Schneider (ed.), Cloth and Human Experience, Washington, Smithsonian Books.

Barfield, Thomas. (Ed.). (1997). The dictionary of anthropology. Oxford, UK: Basil Blackwell.

Campbell, Thomas P. (2007), Tapestry in the Baroque: Threads of Splendor, New York, Yale University Press for The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Crystal, E. (1979). “Mountain Ikats and Coastal Silks: Traditional Textiles in South Sulawesi”, in Fisher, J., (ed.), Threads of Tradition: Textiles of Indonesia and Sarawak, Berkeley, Lowie Museum of Anthropology.

Douglas, Mary. Natural Symbols: Exploration in Cosmology. London: New Fatter Lane, 1996.

Fox, James J. (1980), “Figure Shark and Pattern Crocodile: The Foundations of the Textile Traditions of Roti and Ndao, in Annette B. Weiner and Jane Schneider. (1989), Cloth and Human Experience, (edited), Washington, Smithsonian Books.

Geertz, Clifford. (1973), The Interpretation of Cultures: Selected Essays, New York, Basic Books Inc.

________________. (1973), Thick Description: Toward an Interpretive Theory of Culture. In The Interpretation of Cultures: Selected Essays, New York: Basic Books.

Gerth, H. H. & C. W. Mills. (1946), From Max Weber: Essays in Sociology, Oxford University Press

Giddens, Anthony. Sociology 3 edition. In Abad G. Ricardo (2006), (art.), The Cloth We Wear: A Sociological View, Manila: Ateneo de Manila University,

Gittinger, Mattiebelle (1975), Spendid Symbols: Textiles and Tradition in Indonesia, Washington D.C., The Textile Museum.

Gordon, Beverly. (2011), Textiles, The Whole Story: Uses, Meanings, Significance, London, Thames & Hudson Ltd.

Graham, P. (1987), Iban Shamanism, Canberra: Australian National University.

Hamilton, Roy W. (1994), Gift of the Cotton Maiden: Textiles of Flores and the Solor Islands, USA, Fowler Museum of Cultural History University of California.

Hamonic, G. (1977), “Les ‘fausses-femmes’ du pays bugis (celebes-sud), Objects et Mondes, in Maxwell, Robyn. (2003). Textiles of Southeast Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation, (Revised edition) by Mattiebelle Gittinger, Australia, Australian National Gallery.

Heringa, Rens. (1985), “Kain Tuban. Een Oude Javaanse indigotraditie”, in Gittinger, Mattiebelle. (1990), Splendid Symbols: Textiles and Tradition in Indonesia, Singapore, Oxford University Press.

Hitchcock, M.J. (1985), Indonesian Textile Techniques, Aylesbury, Shire, in Maxwell, Robyn. (2003). Textiles of Southeast Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation, (Revised edition) by Mattiebelle Gittinger, Australia, Australian National Gallery.

Kipp, R. S. (1979), “The Thread of Three Colours: The Kinship Ideology in Karo Batak Funerals,” in Maxwell, Robyn. (2003). Textiles of Southeast Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation, (Revised edition) by Mattiebelle Gittinger, Australia, Australian National Gallery.

Lefferts, H. Leedom, Jr. “Cut and Sewn: The Textile of Social Organization in Thailand.” In Ruth Barnes and Joanne B. Eicher (eds.), Dress and Gender: Making and Meaning, Oxford: St Martin’s Press, 1992.

Maxwell, Robyn. (2003), Textiles of Southeast Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation, (Revised edition) by Mattiebelle Gittinger, Australia, Australian National Gallery.

Niessen, Sandra. (2009), “Legacy in Cloth: Batak Textiles of Indonesia”, Netherland: KLTV Press.

Parkin F. (1979), Marxism and Class Theory: A Bourgeois Critique Columbia University Press, New York.

Sheppard, M. (1978), “Living Crafts of Malaysia”, Singapore, Time Books International, in Maxwell, Robyn. (2003). Textiles of Southeast Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation, (Revised edition) by Mattiebelle Gittinger, Australia, Australian National Gallery.

Terwiel, B.J. (1983). “A History of Thailand”, St Lucia, University of Queensland Press, in Maxwell, Robyn. (2003). Textiles of Southeast Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation, (Revised edition) by Mattiebelle Gittinger, Australia, Australian National Gallery.

Visher, Joseph. (1979), “Threads of Tradition: Textiles of Indonesia and Sarawak, Berkeley, University of California, in Hamilton, Roy W. (1994), Gift of the Cotton Maiden: Textiles of Flores and the Solor Islands, USA, Fowler Museum of Cultural History University of California. New York.

Weiner, Annette B., and Jane Schneider. (ed.), (1989), “Cloth and Human Experience”, Anthropological Research of United State of America.

Winstedt, RO. (1925), “Malay Industries: Arts and Crafts” (Part 1), in Maxwell, Robyn. (2003). Textiles of Southeast Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation, (Revised edition) by Mattiebelle Gittinger, Australia, Australian National Gallery.

Diterbitkan

2024-08-07

Cara Mengutip

Tae Mau, L. (2024). The Art of Kain Tenun Tais: A Gender Differentiation and Social Status Symbol of Bunaq Ethnic Group in West Timor Indonesia . JURNAL PROPHETA, 10(1), 58-84. https://doi.org/10.61717/p.v10i1.100